If the thought of ‘another thing’ to do sends you into entrepreneurial/parental spasms – you’re not alone. Typically when I see the words ‘Ultimate Skincare Routine’ I think, ‘great, here’s something else to make me feel like I’m not on top of everything’ – am I right?
My advice is different. I promise.
And to put your mind at rest I’m a professionally qualified skin aesthetician who works with an award winning micro-biologist recognised as one of the world’s leading experts in the science of reversing ageing.
The ultimate (and actually achievable) skincare routine
THE ULTIMATE (AND ACTUALLY ACHIEVABLE) SKINCARE ROUTINE
By Rachel D’aguiar, Business Owner (@onetruth818nz)
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If the thought of ‘another thing’ to do sends you into entrepreneurial/parental spasms – you’re not alone. Typically when I see the words ‘Ultimate Skincare Routine’ I think, ‘great, here’s something else to make me feel like I’m not on top of everything’ – am I right?
My advice is different. I promise.
And to put your mind at rest I’m a professionally qualified skin aesthetician who works with an award winning micro-biologist recognised as one of the world’s leading experts in the science of reversing ageing.
So let’s start with what you’re doing now. For many of you – it’s too much – yes, that’s right, you can probably do less and achieve more (if younger, healthier functioning skin is what you are after).
If you currently do absolutely nothing then this will start you on the right track.
Unwittingly those of us who care for our appearance the most have fallen into a trap of accidentally ageing our skin faster. Anything you do to your skin that causes damage or forces cell turnover is ageing your cells faster on a biological level.
Turns out spending thousands on a course of laser treatments or micro-needling for example, will give you a short-medium term glow but at their core your cells have aged (it doesn’t actually ‘reveal’ younger skin, it reveals older skin cells that are inflamed and therefore look plumper).
It’s the same with products that promise to ‘increase cell turnover’, they forget to mention the part about the ‘new’ cells being older than the cells you just replaced and that old cells have diminished ability to produce collagen and elastin, the stuff that makes you look young. You are accidentally racing towards the appearance you were trying to avoid.
We’ve heard the wrong advice for so many decades that no-one questions where it came from, it is certainly not following the science of how cells age, because cell division = ageing. It’s so important to educate yourself on how your skin ages biologically because the skin industry is getting ‘better and better’ at damaging skin to reveal ‘younger’ skin. Machines will literally combust cells with laser-focused heat, send thousands of holes per second into your skin and remove the first few layers of your epidermis. The generation before us had none of these ‘advanced’ treatments being thrust on them, sadly we are the guinea pig volunteers being led to believe that more is more.
I was contacted recently by an Australian actress who had seen one of my presentations and the penny had dropped for her. She said ‘I’m 42 and my skin is crepey and unnaturally thin. I’ve had over 30 laser treatments and now I understand it – my problem is absolutely that I’ve aged my skin faster’. Marketing would have you think that after 30 laser treatments she would have the best skin of anyone, right? Wrong.
Introducing Rachel D'Aguiar
Rachael D’Aguiar has been in the professional skin industry for over 20 years. She is an internationally qualified aesthetician who owned her own skincare clinic for over 10 years. She is the CEO and Founder of the One Truth 818 skincare range and a passionate advocate who educates on the science of ageing in order to stop outdated skin practices that damage the skin.
If you are going out of your way and out of pocket to do treatments that cause inflammation and damage to your skin – stop them. Your future self, your bank balance and your stress levels will thank you for it.
Every time your cells divide your telomeres, found on the tips of your DNA to protect it, shorten a bit. When they get too short the cell cannot divide and it dies. These telomeres are quite literally the clock of ageing on our cells and they tick down with every cell division – approximately 50 divisions is all they get. It’s really not something you want to speed up! Cells can die (and nicely dispose of themselves) or transition into Senescent/Zombie cells, wreaking havoc and encouraging healthy cells to transition faster, it explains why people can look a little aged then all of a sudden very, very old. Again, not something you want to encourage.
The moral of the story is to aim to keep telomeres long for as long as possible.
We’ve covered how to stop accidentally speeding up ageing (brilliant, you’ve already saved time, money and face!) now how about we get back to the Ultimate Skin Care Routine?
Cleansing.
Cleansing will remove makeup and also remove toxins and debris that may have accumulated during the day, so a nighttime cleanse is vital, it also means that your evening skincare regime is reaching your skin and not sitting on dirt. Opt for a cleanser that does not strip the skin. Be aware if your cleanser has acids (AHA’s, BHA’s, glycolic, salicylic etc) they can be ok, but if your other leave-on products also contain acids and retinol you are probably over-exfoliating your skin on a daily basis.
Hydrating.
Your skin may need oil, water or both. The difference is that dry skin needs oil, a dehydrated skin needs water. If your skin is flaky and rough to the touch it is probably dry – use an oil-based moisturiser (generally thicker feeling). If your skin feels tight after cleansing (no – it’s not a good thing!) And has very fine lines stretched across it, it is likely dehydrated, its not retaining water. Opt for a water-based moisturiser, a spritz/mist product will also be great for you.
Dry skin and dehydrated skin can both lead to sensitive skin where tiny cracks form in the skin’s barrier and the skin gets irritated easily, so choose your moisturiser wisely.
Don’t know where your skin sits? Go for a hydrating moisturiser first and see how you feel, if it’s not enough for your skin to feel plump and juicy grab a nice face oil and layer it over at night. This can be something super affordable like a bottle of jojoba, grapeseed or rosehip oil from your local health shop as its job is to sit on the surface of your skin for protection and to soften the outer layers of your skin.
Protecting.
Leaving the shelter of your home exposes you to UV radiation. Yes, we need vitamin D and the sun is a great source but we also need to be aware that UV rays can cause the skin to mutate leading to wrinkles and skin degradation at best, cancer is the worst case scenario. If you are working to have your skin look younger and you don’t use SPF you will never achieve your goal. Period. Over exposure to UV rays will age you, many suggest a zero exposure tolerance but I question missing out on vitamin D altogether as it is vital.
Want to do more for your skin? Great! (No it’s not an expensive product or treatment that is going to cause damage…)
Reduce Stress
Stress has been shown to shorten telomeres faster and therefore will play a role in your skin looking older than you are. Do something for yourself each day where you get to slow your heart rate and relax. I know that harassed feeling of not being able to find time for that, so heck it might even just be your cleansing and moisturising routine! If that is all the time you feel you can make for yourself then turn your cleanse into a 2-minute deep breathing massage. Every deep breath counts.
Stop Smoking
Not only is smoking the fastest way to cleave off chunks of your telomeres and the number one cause of accelerated ageing of your skin cells from the inside, but on the outside the toxins in the smoke that your skin is exposed to cause free radicals, another contributor of accelerated ageing. If you are a smoker there is no way around it, you’re going to age yourself and your appearance faster. Please stop.
Feed Your Skin
There are supplements and nutrients that can extend telomere life and others that can make skin look younger. In terms of your skin, the longer the telomere the younger your skin (and all your cells actually). A young skin produces collagen and elastin, has even balanced pigmentation and is strong, not sensitive.
Omegas, whether from your diet or in supplement form, have been shown to be linked with longer telomeres as has a diet rich in antioxidants.
Other supplements, like collagen and hyaluronic acid, can help fatten out what I call ‘the mattress’, of your skin – the structure under the surface. The stronger and plumper this is the less likely skin will ‘fall’ in and become a wrinkle. It also holds capillaries securely so they don’t weaken towards the surface of your skin causing a ruddy appearance.
The Gold Standard Ultimate Skin Care Routine
Is one where a telomerase activating product is used on the skin, this will release the enzyme telomerase that re-lengthens the skin’s telomeres – literally undoing the biological ageing process and making the cells young again. In fact it is the only way to make a cell biologically younger again.
Your life is already busy!
Step one of your New Ultimate Skin Routine: Ditch the stuff that is costing you precious time and money and that you now know is actually ageing you faster. (See, I promised you this advice was different and that you’d like this new routine, didn’t I?) I’m serious, even if you’re half-way through – cancel that course of facial laser treatments!
Cleanse, hydrate appropriately and protect.
Relax a little, but not with a cigarette.
Feed your skin from the inside and if you want to add one ‘sophisticated’ step to your new Ultimate Routine, make it a telomere lengthening product, one that activates the enzyme telomerase and can actually make your skin younger.
The science makes sense, use it to both minimalise and increase the effectiveness of your skincare routine.
Short-term you may not see a problem with this, however the times between your treatments will become shorter and shorter as you see your skin deteriorate faster due to the damage caused.
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